Chain Stitch v.s. Lock Stitch – Pro’s & Con’s

The infamous chain stitch. What’s all the fuss about?  Why do some make such a big deal out of it while others could care less?  Unfortunately, there is no cookie cutter answer here. The easiest way to go through the advantages and disadvantages of chain stitching and lock stitching is probably to do just that in point form.

Chain Stitch

Chain Stitching

Chain Stitching – Process (wikipedia)

Advantages

• More authentic and original
• Results in nicer fading pattern around denim bottoms
• Better “roping” effects (i.e. twisted, rope-like look at denim bottoms)

Disadvantages

• Difficult to have done (since chain stitching must be done on Union Special machine since chain stitching can only be done on a special sewing machine)
• Tends to unravel
• Only noticeable on the inside (i.e. after you cuff)

Other (if you decide to Chain Stitch)

• Ensure you have done post soaking
• Available at Blue in Green, Self Edge, and Blue Owl Workshop

Lock Stitch

Lock Stitch

Lock Stitch – Process (wikipedia)

Advantages

• Stronger stitch
• Much cheaper
• More accessible of a service

Disadvantages

• Aesthetically more unnatural (however, this vary between denim, material, etc.)
• Less appealing to some due to weaker “roping” effect

Additional Resources

• How Sewing Machines Work Article

Stay Raw!