Denim Stains And Indigo Bleeding – How To Avoid And Clean

Indigo Staining can happen anywhere

One of the risks of starting to break in a new pair of raw denim is the great amount of indigo dying that will occur on furniture, your hands, your boots, and anything you put in your pockets in the first couple weeks as the dye sets itself. If this is something you want to avoid (and in the case of furniture, you almost definitely do), there are a few simple steps to minimizing damage and reversing any dying that does occur.

Firstly, too minimize ruining furniture with denim stains, the first (and most obvious) thing to take care of is to simply avoid coming into contact with any white or tan surfaces. In the case of white furniture, if you absolutely have to, be sure to not rub back and forth at all or to get damp or overly warm while sitting down. Avoiding excess warmth and moisture should keep you from getting noticeable stains on other colors of couches as well, though these will be much less likely to show through.

Indigo Stained Couch

If you do get a little bit of denim staining on your furniture or another piece of clothes, saddle soap or your other favorite cleaning product in a warm water wash will most suffice in battling any indigo bleeding. You’ll likely need to rework the stained area a few times, but it’s more important that you clean as soon as possible so as not to allow the dye to settle.

Indigo Stained Boots

The saddle soap option is also the most reliable for cleaning indigo stains off something like leather boots which can take on the dye in wet weather or through excess rubbing. I’d recommend avoiding high boots which will definitely rub the denim as well as avoiding water immersion near the contact areas. The same goes for sneakers, though these can also be easily just be washed with soap. I would recommend avoiding soap on leather, as this risks ruining the leather in the area you wash.

Indigo Stained Sneakers

Your hands are probably the easiest to take care of, as all you really need to consider is washing them with soap and warm water until the dye eventually comes off. The good thing here is that it isn’t all that common, some denims will get a ton of dye on your hands, but luckily most won’t so your hands and whatever you put in your pockets should be fine.

Re-Cap

In summary, there are a few simple steps to be taken to avoid lasting denim stains on any surfaces:

1. Prevention – avoid whites, high boots, and wet weather’
2. Rapid Response – if you detect any sort of stain, get soap to it as quickly as possible, and ideally don’t rub it in too much with water beforehand. Warm water will help prevent the indigo from settling and though saddle soap is the best option, any cleaning solution should be effective. You may want to stop short of bleach unless the item is pure white to begin with.
3. Repeat - Continue to scrub with soap until the stain has come off or at least faded. Keep the warm water coming.

This simple guide should work for most indigo stain prevention and removal, but if you have other suggestions, hints or improvements that you favor, we invite you to leave your comments below.

Stay Raw! 

OFF-TOPIC: Ray ban BL and RB, History and Information

Ray-Ban was founded in 1937 by Bausch & Lomb (B&L) as a brand under which to design and manufacture sunglasses which incorporated advanced B&L lens technologies. The initial buyer was the U.S. Army Air Corps, but it was Lieutenant John MacCready who had the idea that would change the face of sunglasses.

In 1920, MacCready returned from a balloon flying expedition complaining that the sunlight had done permanent damage to his eyes. He contacted Bausch & Lomb to ask them to use their optical expertise and technology to design sunglasses that would provide complete UV protection while also being stylish and comfortable to wear.

On May 7, 1937, B&L took out the patent on the prototype which included "Anti-Glare" lenses and construction of a lightweight frame that weighed only 150 grams. The prototype sunglasses were made of a gold plated metal with 2 green lenses made of mineral glass to filter out both infrared and ultraviolet rays. Pilots in the Army Air Corps immediately adopted them as did pilots in the other branches of the armed forces.

The "aviator" style became synonymous with Ray-Ban, never more so than when General Douglas MacArthur landed on the beach in the Philippines during World War II and was photographed wearing Ray-Ban aviator sunglasses. Ray-Ban aviator sunglasses featured dark, moderately reflective lens in a shape that covered 2 to 3 times the area of the eye, and they were popular with both traditional wire ear stems and ear pads as well as curved wire ear stems that looped around the ears and secured the fit. Over future years, this style of curved wire ear stems on Ray-Ban sunglasses were also referred to as Shooter and Outdoorsman sunglasses.

There have been many famous Ray-Ban styles over the years transcending Ray-Ban aviator sunglasses, many coupled with new optical or frame advances. As for styles, none became more aligned with pop culture than did Ray-Ban Wayfarer sunglasses designed by B&L optical designer Raymond Stegeman and first introduced in 1952 when their design was a revolutionary break from earlier sunglass styles.

According to design critic Stephen Bayley, the "distinctive trapezoidal frame spoke a nonverbal language that hinted at unstable dangerousness, but one nicely tempered by the sturdy arms which, according to the advertising, gave the frames a 'masculine look.'" While popular in the 1950s and 1960s, Ray-Ban Wayfarer sunglasses attained the height of their popularity from celebrities who favored the style, from Audrey Hepburn in the 1961 movie Breakfast At Tiffany's to Tom Cruise and Val Kilmer in Top Gun.

Bob Dylan was hardly ever seen not wearing his Ray-Ban Wayfarers in the 1960s, and other notable personalities who have been extensively photographed wearing Ray-Ban Wayfarers include Marilyn Monroe, John Lennon, James Dean, John F. Kennedy, Roy Orbison, John Belushi, and Andy Warhol. Vintage B&L Ray-Ban advertising was very effective in conveying their history with aviators, pilots, and celebrities.

Ray ban Aviator

Ray-Ban introduced a number of innovations in lens technology over the years, and the Vintage Sunglasses Shop has collected plenty of original B&L Ray-Ban marketing materials from the 1940s onward. All vintage Ray-Ban sunglasses feature "precision ground lenses polished from crystal clear optical glass so they are free from distortion or any other flaw." Marketing material from the 1980s notes that Ray-Ban frames "are meticulously from specially alloyed metal or from plastics that are used in prescription eyewear frames."

Among B&L's constant density lenses, theRay-Ban G-15 neutral gray lenses transmit all colors equally so they retain their true values, providing 85% visible light absorption and 100% UV protection. Ray-Ban B-15 high contrast brown lenses screen out blue light to improve contrast and sharpen details, providing 85% visible light absorption and 100% UV protection. Ray-Ban RB-3 green lenses feature absorption balanced with the eye's sensitivity to colors for peak acuity, with 71% visible light absorption and 100% UV protection.

The amazing Bausch & Lomb Diamond Hard lenses are noted by both the Ray-Ban logo and a diamond etched in the glass of the lens and are virtually scratch proof. Most authentic B&L Ray-Ban lenses produced c mid 1950s and after have a very small BL etched in the glass of the lens near the hinge points of the sunglasses.

Ray-Ban sunglasses were marketed as "The World's finest Sunglasses" which promoted the company's experience over more than 100 years of manufacturing scientific optical instruments. Quality control at the original Ray-Ban was a top priority, with lenses made from optical glass which had been "precision ground and polished to be "free of waves or any other defects that could distort vision and cause eyestrain and fatigue."

Ray-Ban gold frames feature gold electroplating, sometimes with 10k, 12k, or even 24k gold, and the process ensures that the gold is permanently bonded to the core metal which was specially alloyed for both strength and malleability. It is important to note that Ray-Ban black frames were known as "black chrome" and similarly electroplated, so the black finish is not an enamel which could chip or wear off.

We are often asked about what vintage Ray-Ban marks on gold filled frames means. As an example, a vintage B&L Ray-Ban frame with impressed marks B&L 1/10 12K GF indicates a frame with gold content of about 5% pure gold when you exclude the plastic parts, lenses, and screws. To be more exact, the frames are 5% pure gold, 2.5% copper for wear resistance to the gold finish, 2.5% silver to retain the yellow color of pure gold, and the balance magnetic steel in the core. The "GF" hallmark does in fact mean "Gold Filled," but when you consider the relatively small percentage of gold the frames contain and the fact that the gold is on the surface of the frame rather than the core you can see that the GF marking is somewhat a misnomer.

It should also be noted that the "GF" mark is equivalent to the "G.O." (Gold Overlay) mark and the "RGP" (Rolled Gold Plate) mark all used at different periods. Each of these marks implies a gold content of at least 5% by weight. In this type of plating, a layer of gold is attached to the core metal by a combination of pressure, heat, and chemicals. This is the origin of the "Rolled" in RGP, i.e. the gold is literally rolled or pressed onto the core metal.

This method differs from electroplating in that the gold content in electroplating is less than 1% by weight. The idea behind RGP is to put enough gold on the core metal such that there will be no wear through at least 30 years of wear. Obviously the process is better than expected as we've never seen a vintage B&L Ray-Ban gold filled frame with wear through to the finish. The bottom line is that a GF finish will last indefinitely with no significant wear to the gold plating at all. Remember that a 12K gold alloy of 50% gold, 25% copper and 25% silver has a hardness rating of 160. That's pretty hard compared to pure gold which has a hardness rating of just 20.

Ambermatic lens

A few of the most notable variations of the Ray-Ban lens technology include Changeables, photochromatic lenses which react to the sun's brightness to protect your eyes, darkening and lightening an amazing range of 75% range depending on light conditions. Ray-Ban Kalichrome shooter and outdoorsman sunglasses were yellow lens shooters designed for shooting sports conducted in hazy, foggy, and low light conditions.

The yellow lenses actually intensify light and increase contrast, and wearing them on bright sunny days might hurt your eyes a bit but you will at least look cool. The shooter design is similar to the aviator but sits higher up on the face, and the space between lenses is separated by a circular ring that is referred to as the bullet hole, and it has cable temples to give a secure fit for active pursuits. Ray-Ban "smart" Ambermatic lenses adjust to the prevailing light. On cloudy and overcast days, Ray-Ban Ambermatic sunglasses are lightly tinted and amber colored to cut through haze and sharpen vision. On sunny, warm days they turn brown to block the glare, and on sunny, cold days they change to dark gray for superior protection from direct and reflected glare.

We are also asked a lot about characteristics and marks on real vintage Ray-Ban aviator sunglasses. The aviator frame should be solid and sturdy with de minimus wear to the gold plating regardless of the age of the aviators. You can find vintage aviators with the typical B&L Ray-Ban gold plating as well as aviators which are either 10k or 12k gold filled. In almost all cases, the top of the frame at the nose bridge will be marked with B&L Ray-Ban U.S.A. sometimes followed by the frame and lens size and sometimes followed with 10k GF or 12k GF designations, all etched in the metal of the frame.

Most aviators will also have B&L Ray-Ban USA inscribed in the frame below the nose bridge as well depending on the design. The small etched BL in the lenses near the hinge points was not used in Ray-Ban sunglass lens production until the late 1970's, and the cursive white Ray-Ban trademark logo on the lens was introduced in late 1982 and subsequently present on all Ray-Ban sunglasses from 1983 onward.

Like many higher end consumer items, Ray-Ban sunglasses are extensively reproduced in Asia, so easily that a simple google search will turn up Chinese web sites selling many styles of fake Ray-Bans. At the Vintage Sunglasses Shop, we take great care to vet every pair of vintage sunglasses we sell for period authenticity. There are various ways to identify fake Ray-Ban sunglasses if one knows what to look for. If you buy vintage sunglasses on auction sites, your chances of buying a fake are not insignificant.

Ray-Ban was acquired by the Luxottica conglomerate in 1999, also now the owner of many of the world's most famous brands of sunglasses including Revo, Oakley, Oliver Peoples, Persol, Chanel, Versace, DKNY, and more. In our view, the quality of Ray-Ban sunglasses quickly declined with corporate ownership and a blurring of the lines with other Luxottica brands. While the new styles are fine if you like them, the Vintage Sunglasses Shop focuses its attention on Ray-Ban styles and models produced c 2000 and earlier.

The classic and eclectic frame styles produced during this period coupled with the most significant advances in B&L lens technology easily explain why these vintage Ray-Ban sunglasses styles usually sell for higher prices than brand new Ray-Bans- even in the exact same style.

Source :- sunglassesmalaysia.com 

Chain Stitch v.s. Lock Stitch – Pro’s & Con’s

The infamous chain stitch. What’s all the fuss about?  Why do some make such a big deal out of it while others could care less?  Unfortunately, there is no cookie cutter answer here. The easiest way to go through the advantages and disadvantages of chain stitching and lock stitching is probably to do just that in point form.

Chain Stitch

Chain Stitching

Chain Stitching – Process (wikipedia)

Advantages

• More authentic and original
• Results in nicer fading pattern around denim bottoms
• Better “roping” effects (i.e. twisted, rope-like look at denim bottoms)

Disadvantages

• Difficult to have done (since chain stitching must be done on Union Special machine since chain stitching can only be done on a special sewing machine)
• Tends to unravel
• Only noticeable on the inside (i.e. after you cuff)

Other (if you decide to Chain Stitch)

• Ensure you have done post soaking
• Available at Blue in Green, Self Edge, and Blue Owl Workshop

Lock Stitch

Lock Stitch

Lock Stitch – Process (wikipedia)

Advantages

• Stronger stitch
• Much cheaper
• More accessible of a service

Disadvantages

• Aesthetically more unnatural (however, this vary between denim, material, etc.)
• Less appealing to some due to weaker “roping” effect

Additional Resources

• How Sewing Machines Work Article

Stay Raw!

The 2013 Pronto Denim Carnival in Bangkok, Thailand – Re-Cap

The Pronto Denim Carnival.

Unbeknownst to many occidental denimheads, Thailand has become a centre of raw denim culture over the past seven years or so. There are at least two large online communities – Soul IV Street and Selvedge Forum – as well as a handful of local brands like Indigo Skin but much of the Thailand’s denim community is centred around Pronto Denim.

In only a few years, the Thai retailer – masterminded byChnanon “Dan” Sachdev and his brother Sunny –  has become the world’s largest chain of high-end denim shops outside of Japan with their eighth store scheduled to open this month. Carrying many of raw denim’s most distinguished brands – Nudie Jeans, Pure Blue Japan, The Flat Head,Iron Heart and Naked And Famous amongst others,Pronto‘s clientele is often younger than that of American or European retailers and they present their high-end Japanese raw denim in a contemporary context where slim and skinny fits dominate.

The first Denim Carnival event, designed to showcase all things denim, was held last fall and was a huge success. This year’s event, based around a mining theme, was even bigger, drawing thousands of denim fans from Thailand and around the world to Parc Paragon where the event was held.  Fans descended upon their favourite brands when the gates opened at noon and things didn’t let up until after 9 PM.

The Denim Carnival offered fans outside of Japan an unprecedented opportunity to meet the people behind their favourite brands with many of the most significant names in the raw denim world showing up for the event. The Flat Head’s Masayoshi Kobayashi and several others occupied the largest booth at the event, where their 3002PFRFESTjeans, based on the 3002FXR released earlier this year, sold out in all but the largest sizes in only half an hour.

Likewise, Iron Heart‘s collaboration model quickly flew off the shelves as Shin’ichi Haraki and his Japanese team attended alongside Giles and Paula Padmore, who manage the brand’s overseas business. Ken’ichi Iwaya and others from Pure Blue Japan brought a new collaboration as well which was a similarly significant hit.

All three brands were swamped throughout the day by fans who treated the owners like celebrities, standing in long lines for the opportunity to get their jeans – new and worn alike – signed by the brand owners. The Lightning Magazine crew from Japan were also in attendance, as were Fullcount andJapan Blue.

The Flat Head’s Masayoshi Kobayashi.

It wasn’t all about Japanese brands though. Brandon Svarc and Bahzad Trinos from Canada’s Naked And Famous were present as well and had a limbo competition later in the evening in addition to showing off a new 18 oz.Unbranded model exclusive to the event. Imperial Denimrepresented Australia and Thorogood Boots showed off their new 1892 line of high-end, US-made footwear. Nudie Jeans treated their fans to a ping-pong tournament and were one of several European brands in attendance including fellow Swedes Cheap Monday.

Pronto Denim themselves had plenty of tricks up their sleeves. In addition to the individual stage events carried out by the respective brands, Pronto brought several of their own games and activities. Fans tried in vain to score high enough on the strength test to win a free pair of jeans while a mechanical bull tested denimheads’ balance as they struggled to stay on top.

Bull riding.

Pronto also carried out a denim fade contest, showing that Thai fans have some of the most consistently-amazing fades in the world. Carl’s Jr. kept denim heads feeling fresh with their burgers, chicken sandwiches, and fries as well as holding a well attended burger-eating competition. The event also had some great music, including Sally And The Kraken and the Eddie Baytos Band.

Nudie Ping-Pong.

Carl’s Jr. Burger Eating Contest.

This year’s Denim Carnival was a smashing success, and it’s safe to say that we can look forward to another event next fall. So far, it’s the only event outside of Japan that captures the magnitude of festivals like Inazuma or Super Weekend. Though Pronto Denim has a massive presence in Thailand, their unique take on raw denim culture – including many exclusive collaborations – and the Denim Carnival just might earn themselves an overseas following as well.

The Sachdev Brothers – the gentlemen behind Pronto Denim.

Stay Raw!

MY WORN LEATHER GOODS ( PICTURE CONTEST 2014 )

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TITLE: MY WORN LEATHER GOODS ( PICTURE CONTEST 2014 ) 

DURATION: ONE MONTH (1 MARCH – 31 MARCH 2014)

ORGANIZER: MYDENIM.ORG

OFFICIAL PRIZE SPONSORS :
1- FIELD TRIP HANDMADE
2- KERASTANGAN CLOTHING

------------------------------------------------------------------
HOW TO WIN?

1- THIS CONTEST OPEN TO ALL MYDENIM.ORG MEMBERS

2- THE LEATHER GOOD THAT WILL BE USED IN THIS CONTEST MUST BELONG TO YOU OR INHERITED TO YOU. PLEASE DO NOT POST PICTURE OR THINGS THAT ARE NOT YOURS.

3- EVERY CONTESTANT HAVE TO UPLOAD ONE OR TWO CLOSE UP PICTURES (MINIMUM) OF THEIR WORN OUT LEATHER. 

4- A NICE AND CREATIVE WRITE UP ABOUT THE PRODUCT WILL BE ADDED ADVANTAGES. 

5- NO LIMIT IN SUBMISSION. YOU CAN SUBMIT ONE, TWO, THREE OR HOW MANY LEATHER PRODUCT/GOODS WHICH YOU THINK ARE BEST AGED AND WORN OUT IN THIS THREAD. 

6- EVERY CONTESTANT HAVE 14 DAYS (1-14 MARCH 2014) TO POST THEIR PICTURES.

7- AFTER THAT, STARTING FROM 15-21 MARCH 2014, THERE WILL BE AN ONLINE VOTING + JUDGE VOTING TO SELECT THREE OR FIVE (DEPENDING ON AMOUNT OF CONTESTANT) PICTURES FOR FINAL BATTLE. 

8- FINAL BATTLE (22-27 MARCH 2014), CONTESTANT CAN EITHER USE THE OLD PICTURE OR UPLOAD THE NEW ONE (OF THE SAME PRODUCT). 

9- THE SPONSORS (WHO WILL BE THE JUDGE FOR THE FINAL) WILL GIVE THE MARKS FOR EVERY FINAL PICTURES. THE PICTURE THAT HAVE HIGHER TOTAL MARK COLLECTION WILL BE THE WINNER.

10- THE FINAL RESULT WILL BE ANNOUNCED ON 31 MARCH 2014 



I bet most of you have at least a leather product that you used in daily or weekly or monthly or whatever basis. Boots, keyhook, bracelet, key chain, phone case, wallet or anything that are made from leather will age and look better with wear.

Here, to celebrate the beauty of worn out leather, Mydenim and two local leather label, Field Trip Hand Made and Keras Tangan Clothing would like to give you guys some free leather good, but you need to show us first how good is your beaten up leather good. 

Please read the instruction of how to win in the first post.

A brief info about our sponsor:

Field Trip Hand Made
Our small team of craftsmen produce every piece by hand using American manufacturing tradition, every piece is hand cut, sewn and assembled. The line is based on quality and function with impeccable attention to detail.
Every piece we manufacture is constructed from premium, domestically sourced material.
Our leather goods are designed to last for years and look better with age.
Like their fb page herehttps://www.facebook.com/fieldtriphandmade

Keras Tangan Clothing
Handmade in Malaysia, by Malaysian, for Human Nation...
Like their fb page herehttps://www.facebook.com/pages/KerasTangan-Clothing/426803277409525

Registered & log on to Mydenim.org for more info!!

Stay Raw!

32oz Heaviest Jeans in the World!

If anyone was to ask me « what is your favorite pair of jeans that you have ever created? »… my answer is our 32oz selvedge denim jeans… The heaviest pair of jeans ever made! We have worked to build this jean for 2 years and I can say with certainty that it was by far the most difficult production challenge we have ever overcome. Most people ask me « why the hell would you make a pair of jeans that is so heavy and uncomfortable? » and it’s a fair question… I often reply with an analogy « Why would someone climb mount Everest? » It’s not comfortable to do, its not easy, nor is it inexpensive… people do it so they can say they conquered the tallest mountain in the world. I find that human beings are fascinated by anything that is a superlative. Well, these jeans are my denim superlative.

From weaving the denim to cutting and sewing to installing the 15oz leather patch, this process has been a marvel of Japanese production skills. Without further blabbing, here are the photos of the final result…

138 pairs total were made and are available now at fine retailers worldwide! We may never be able to make these again so if you want a pair, you’ll have to act fast! So heavy and rigid, the jeans can easily stand on their own…

I’m often asked if the jeans are actually wearable. The answer is YES! I’ve worn a pair for a few days and it was doable, but I’m pretty bony and my hips were a bit marked up afterwards. In this photo below you can see one of the great staff members at colette boutique in Paris wearing his pair of 32oz jeans. They look amazing on him! He says after just 2 days of wear they are broken in and comfy. (I think he may be tougher than me.) Notice how he’s got a thick belt over the super thick patch!…

Here is 3 pairs of 32oz jeans next to 9 pairs of 11oz jeans!

I thought it would also be fun to share some photos of the actual sewing process, so here goes!… These photos are not in any particular order and I have 3000 photos of the production, so I just randomly chose a few…

The amount of hammering and ‘bashing’ involved in order to make the seams sew-able was extraordinary! A 2-sided mallet and the back of a screwdriver were both used to tame the beast that is 32oz denim…

One of the most difficult parts to sew is the feed-off center back yoke seam. That’s the point where several pieces are joined together, and you can see in the 4th photo below how thick that seam is. It’s almost a full inch thick! Crazy. This operation is always done by the most skilled worker. Good thing the Union Special held up as well as her fingers!

Struggling to turn a semi-finished pair outside-in… (It’s even difficult to just cuff these jeans!)

Hmm… how in the world are we going to sew the buttonhole?…

…With man-hand-power, that’s how!…

Laser-guided rivet installation…

Carefully sewing the woven taffeta label over a huge bump where the center yoke seam meets the waistband…

The final cleaning and snipping of any loose/extra thread. How rad are these 2 ladies?!…

Ok, I will admit that I put in this photo below because the girl is cute… Kawai!

Some extra photos for fun…

Well that’s it for now… If you are lucky/brave enough to have bought one of these masterpieces please do email me the photos. This denim should fade really beautifully as well! If you are thinking of buying a pair, just remember we like to joke… « Guaranteed uncomfortable or your money back! »

http://nakedandfamousdenim.com/fr/