Sunday, April 27, 2014

Talking about kaihara denim and uniqlo jeans

image

Telegraph UK has come out with aninteresting report on Kaihara Denim Mills and Japanese denim . Japanese denim always draws rave reviews about its quality and methods of production which makes it stand apart from other mills around the world. Japanese denim has always been fascinating the denim world due to its great quality, selvedge weaves (on old shuttle looms) and passion for perfection  that goes as a very important ingredient . But the  report from Telegraph comes out with some interesting facts aboutKaihara and Japanese Denim Brand Uniqlo  which also produces its premium denim range at the same location.

  • Kaihara denim mill was started in 1893 tomanufacture Indigo Kimonos. For those who are not aware – Kimono is a Japanese traditional garment worn by women, men and children.
  • Kaihara uses a large quantity of  Pima cottonfrom US as it is one of the best cottons in the world. This would come as a surprise for many other denim mills as Pima cotton is hardly used for denim  due to its high cost. However, if a top of the line product has to be made, the ingredients have to go in accordingly !.
  • Rope dyeing technology is used in the manufacture of denim. 
  • Uniqlo jeans are also manufactured inBangladesh and China to keep the costs down. So what happens is that the jeans made from the best denim mill are available at reasonable prices (eg starting from $39.50 in US !)  . So where on the one hand , most premium denim brands are available at prices of &100 and above, Uniqlo manages to bring out jeans made from a great denim fabric at a very reasonable price – making it affordable for masses.

The constant barrage of information on Japanese denim has increased the awareness amongst consumers about the importance of fabrics in the jeans. This has also partly helped a brand like Uniqlo to sell its jeans . The reportmentions that Sam Lobban, the menswear buyer at Selfridges, attributes this to an increased awareness among savvy buyers of authentic fabrications.

“What really makes Japanese selvedge so superior is the depth of colour – the specialist washing techniques take to selvedge denim better to give a more 3D and rich colour.’ Just as important as the finish is the shape of the jean. ‘Selvedge denim tends to be on a more "regular" fit,’”Lobban says.

Something About Uniqlo

It would be in place to say something more about this important Japanese retailer . Uniqlois a  blend of the words "unique" and "clothing" – and 3-4 years ago , it would’ve meant nothing to anyone but the exceptionally well-travelled. The Japanese chain launched itself into the UK in November 2007 by opening two huge new stores in one day (it was actually a relaunch; it tried first in 2001 but scaled back). Since then, its popularity in Britain has exploded. In the midst of the worst recession in Britain since the Second World War, UK sales since Christmas have been up 140 per cent on the same period last year Worldwide, the store says it sells 400 million items a year.

Its New York store in SOHO (the only store in US)  is their largest store anywhere in the world with a huge  89000 sq feet of space and anunbelievable  rent of $20 million a a year .

Uniqlo already has a prescence in the Chinese market with about 47 stores and has just entered the Russian market. It is eyeing Indian market and is sure to make an entry within an year or two . With the kind of quality of jeans it has, it is surely going to give the existing players (including Levi’s) a run for their money.

Working with over 100 factories throughout Asia, UNIQLO is distinctive in that it combines the quality and craftsmanship that is synonymous with Japanese culture with the ability to manufacture in high volume, thereby offering consumers affordable everyday products with exceptional attention to every detail. For this reason, UNIQLO’s can offer its customers denim from the same denim fabric mill used by many high-end denim brands at a substantial savings. And if you are looking for some customer reviews on Uniqlo, here are some.

It would be interesting to see the prices of some other Japanese denim brands when we are talking about Uniqlo. These prices were posted in our previous post on Blue in Green Soho – Japanese Denim Shop

Denime – $298-$325 
Eternal – $255 
Evisu Japan – $240-$385 
Fullcount & Co. – $275-$330 
Momotaro Jeans – $250-$315 
Oni Denim – $185-$585 
Paul Smith Japan – $325 
Pure Blue Japan – $169-$559 
Samurai Jeans – $275-$665 
Skull Jeans – $240-$350 
Somet – $210-$295 
Studio D’Artisan – $265-$620 
Sugar Cane & Co. – $265-$370 
Sunrise Japan – $348-$358 
The Real McCoy’s – $248-$368 
Warehouse Co. – $245-$275

Saturday, April 12, 2014

KNOW YOUR WELTS: THE MOST COMMON BOOT WELTS

Leather boots are one of the few items of clothing undeniably synonymous with raw denim. Thoughtful construction, natural materials, a century old aesthetic and the fact that boots are equal parts fashionable and functional pave the way for the average denim head and his lasted cowhide to be joint at the cuff.

And as is the case in the denim industry, often times it’s easy to get lost in the whirlwind of terminology. That’s where we come in. Whether to simply outsmart your forum buddies, improve that first date banter (If she lets you talk chromexcel all night, she could be the one), or legitimately find the perfect pair to meet your needs, take heed of our comprehensive breakdown of the footwear industry’s most commonly used welts.

THE GOODYEAR WELT

Goodyear Boot Welt

Image courtesy: mydenimlife.com

Due to its longstanding heritage, little-needed-maintenance, waterproof durability and clean aesthetic, theGoodyear welt is arguably the most prolific construction method within the leather footwear industry. The goodyear welt takes its name from Charles Goodyear Jr., an American inventor who automated the previously hand made welting process in 1869. This very same method is still used by cobblers around the world today.

The first step in constructing a goodyear welt is to stretch the upper over a lastand bring it together with the insole,mid-sole, and welt using what we call a welt-stitch; one of two elements in the goodyear welt, along with the (rapid stitch) that holds the entire operation together. From there, in a relatively simple last step, the welt is cemented and rapid stitched to the both the mid and outsoles.

Alden x Need Supply Indy Boot

Alden x Need Supply Indy Boot showing the Goodyear welt

Some of the more well known goodyear welted shoe models are the Red Wing 877875 and the Wolverine 1000 Mile boots. New England based shoe manufacturer Alden also offers the majority of their Indy Boot line up in either a Goodyear or Storm welt.

THE STORM WELT

Storm Boot Welt

Image courtesy: mydenimlife.com

The Storm welt is closely related to the Goodyear in the fact that each method uses the same components, differing only in form. Storm welt construction uses a welt similar to that of a goodyear constructed boot but wider. The extra width allows the welt to be bent upwards, creating a seal around the junction between the upper and the mid-sole. Aptly named, the Storm welt is generally considered to offer greater moisture protection than a Goodyear welt.

Trickers Storm Welt Boot Construction

Tricker’s storm welt

Tricker’s and Alden are two of the most prominent users of the Storm welt within today’s footwear industry.

Blake Construction

Blake Boot Construction

Image courtesy: mydenimlife.com

Blake construction, in terms of both structure and aesthetic, is a little more removed than that of the previous goodyear and storm welts. In fact, a shoe made using Blake construction goes without a welt altogether. It simply uses a single channelled stitch running straight from the outsole through to the interior to hold the different elements of the shoe together. Some modern shoemakers tend to slip a lining within the shoe to hide the blake stitch from a bird’s eye view, however the more traditional method was to leave the blake stitch visible; often causing discomfort to some wearers.

Blake construction has become less common in hard wearing boots due to the tendency for moisture to wick it’s way through the blake stitch and into the shoe under heavy weather conditions. However a benefit of the Blake stitch, and one of the main reasons why the method still gets used today, is the low, and more elegant, profile that shoemakers can achieve due to the omission of the traditional welt and midsole.

One bootmaker that still uses the blake construction method is Rancourt & Co. from Lewiston, Maine. A personal favorite is Rancourt’s Blake Boot in olive chromexcel. 

Rancourt & Co. Blake Boot

Wednesday, April 2, 2014

11 WAYS TO FADE YOUR RAW DENIM FASTER – GUIDE


11 WAYS TO FADE YOUR RAW DENIM FASTER – GUIDE

Well there aren’t any quick tips to release the fading potential in your indigo threads–until today! We’ve decided to share with you 11 surefire ways to speed up your journey to sick fadesville:

1. SLEEP IN YOUR JEANS

Sleeping in bed with jeans

Image courtesy: vwc.edu

How can you expect fast fades if you’re neglecting up to 8 hours of potential wear per day? Sleeping in your jeans lets you dream about fades while you create them, plus if you do it often enough you’ll get a free pair of indigo-dyed sheets! For extra fast fades, be sure to keep them on during any “nightly activity”–now you know why most raws come with a button-fly instead of a zipper.

2. WEAR YOUR JEANS INSIDE OUT

g star inside out jeans

G-Star’s waaaay ahead of the curve! Image courtesy: upscalehype.com

Raw denim fades based on friction, the majority of which happens against the weft of your jeans with your legs. This is the same reason crotch blowouts happen. Wearing your jeans inside out will allow you to turn 100% of the the natural friction your body creates and into fading gold, plus how else can you show off the full length of that selvedge ID?

3. RUB COFFEE BEANS ON YOUR JEANS

Blue jeans and coffee beans

Image courtesy: bluejeansandcoffeebeans.com

Coffee is naturally acidic so it should be no surprise that the beans possess fading properties. Take the beans by the handful (green beans are best but roasted will also work) and rub them throughout the targeted areas. After you’ve applied enough, pour near boiling water over the top of your pants. Collect this water in a mug for a refreshing indigo-mocha beverage.

4. MOVE TO THAILAND

Naked & Famous Elephant 2 fade

Really, anywhere in Southeast Asia works. The super high humidity and hellish temperatures makes for the best environment to fade your jeans and the worst environment to wear them at the same time. Just look at these amazingfades. If your family and your boss don’t understand your need to relocate to achieve the fades you need, then you don’t need them.

5. MICROWAVE YOUR JEANS

microwave with apple pie

Image courtesy: archiexpo.com

The key to your unlocking your fades has been living in your kitchen the whole time. The indigo chemical (C16H10N2O2), is based in Carbon, Hydrogen, Nitrogen, and Oxygen–the same elements that make up our food. Applying a light amount of microwave radiation to your jeans will break down the indigo bonds, letting them separate from your jeans more easily, and thus fade faster. We recommend 45 seconds on maximum power or the baked potato selection if your microwave has one.

6. URINATE ON YOUR JEANS

billy madison pee pants

Image courtesy: Universal Pictures

You may be worried about the odor, but if you’ve already gone for several months without washing then covering your jeans with piss won’t make them smell any worse. The ammonia and potassium nitrate present in your urine will dissolve the indigo’s bond with your denim–it’s even endorsed by renowned jeans expert Ruedi Karrer. Bonus points for being able to write your name in the fades!

7. DEEP FREEZE YOUR JEANS IN LIQUID NITROGEN

stand up jeans hung in field

Image courtesy: gizmag.com

Many companies starch their jeans to make them more rigid and thus more likely to develop creases for fades. There’s no better way to get a rigid pair of jeans than to bathe them in liquid nitrogen at temperatures as cold as -346 degrees Fahrenheit. This method guarantees any pair of jeans will be able to stand up on their own in seconds, but be careful not to shatter them or get frostbite when putting them back on. This option may be limited to chemistry students and trendy ice cream workers.

8. TALK TO YOUR JEANS

marilyn monroe reads to jeans

Marilyn Monroe reads her jeans a nice bedtime story.

Numerous scientific studies have shown that talking to a plant will help it grow faster, and we’ve found the same results with fading raw denim. Tell your denim encouraging things like, “you’re a good jean” and “you’re going to be on Fade Friday some day” I’ve also found success in reading bedtime stories, my Iron Hearts and I are almost through The Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants 2.

9. KEEP BALONEY IN YOUR POCKETS

bologna baloney lunch meat slices

Image courtesy: wikipedia.com

Don’t ask us how, but it works!

10. BLEACH ‘EM

bleached indigo shirts and pants

Rorschach blot patterns are hot, hot, hot! Image courtesy: denimblog.com

They may not be the fades you want, but it’s undeniably the best way to achieve high-speed fades.

11. BAPTIZE YOUR JEANS WITH HOLY WATER

jesus being baptized in the ocean with the sun coming down all ahhhh

Baptism, the original ocean wash. Image courtesy: charisisenough.wordpress.com

A pair of jeans that will live long enough to see amazing fades needs to be composed of strong moral fibers. In order to avoid hole-y pants, you’re gonna have to get some holy pants. Enter into your local church, preferably after hours, and spread about two cups of the liquid over your stress points while saying, “In the name of the bar tack, the hidden rivet, and the Union Special, I summon you Jeansus!” (WARNING: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO BAPTIZE ONI JEANS).

Did we forget your favorite way to speed up jean fading? Too bad!